Tag Archives: public spaces

Phoenix Revitalization via Central City South

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Could Central City South be Phoenix’s version of Chicago’s Humboldt Park?

Learn more about CCS through the PRC web site

Learn more about CCS through the PRC web site

 

Central City South’s Phoenix Revitalization Corporation is one of a handful of Valley neighborhoods helping to reinvent PHX. It’s in the process of cleaning up some of its blight and polishing some respect for the culturally diverse and historical community. At least this is what I gleaned from going on two tours there. The neighborhood, between 16th Street and 19th Avenue, lies immediately below downtown Phoenix and extends south to the Maricopa Freeway (The 10). The PRC, earnest in its seeking economic development desires– and hoping not to get swallowed by high-rise developers when the economy regains energy– seems at a loss for a simple, cost-effective, overarching strategy.

By the Numbers

AEC industry participants such as city planner Joshua Bednarek and Leslie Lindo and Ben Montclair of Ikoloji Sustainability Collaborative were in attendance as the PRC gave them the numbers. Central City South has

  • 12,000 residents, most of whom have lived there for generations
  • Unemployment of 12%
  • Car ownership of 20%
  • 66% of Phoenix’s public housing
  • average education levels no higher than the ninth-grade and income levels of $21,000.

Despite the lack of common amenities such as cafes, pharmacies, and even ice cream shops, many of CCS’s residents have lived there for generations. PRC is giving them good reason: it’s provided several manicured public parks– nine of which exemplify urban agriculture practices; a public swimming pool; and the Maricopa Skill Center, a successful vocational school. Here’s an abbreviated list of places discussed on the PRC’s biannual tour for the public:

  • American Legion Post #41 (for Hispanic WWII veterans not allowed to participate in traditional Legion posts)
  • Silvestre Herrera Elementary School (named after the Mexican-American military hero)
  • Chicanos por La Causa
  • Carver Museum within a lovely new Phoenix Public Library branch
  • the Darrell Duppa House.

Englishman Phillip “Lord” Darrell Duppa, built the house in 1870 and supposedly gave Phoenix and Tempe their names. The first house in the area, it has been partially restored, though driving past it, even with darkly tinted windows, raises the question of what was restored. This was not one of the aesthetic highlights of the trip. It did, however, bring to light some of the historical value of this community of 13 barrios.

Exploring

Revitalization can’t be a city mandate. That’s called eminent domain (which comes up in discussions about Mesa). It must include input from the citizens. In the case of CCS, that was clearly shown as we toured the community by van. We saw neighbors outside working on their lawns. Very little litter. New solar panels blanketing sunshades over an elementary school’s playground. Then came the wrap on the bus before Our Lady of Fatima Catholic Church offering free pregnancy tests. (I’ll skip further comment on that.)

There were vacant lots, sure, but several new two-story single-family residences also grew on streets with some rather neglected houses. In fact, there are currently 298 low-income housing units (of which 187 are occupied). Residences strictly kept “affordable” number in the thousands. Combined with newly constructed senior housing and community centers visible through the neighborhood, we can see HUD’s Hope VI, a national program to “eradicate severely distressed public housing”, at work.

Meanwhile, the PRC will continue to work on the golden threads for the community’s revitalization: beauty, fostering neighborly connections, safety, pride, recreation, health, community services, individual development, economic development, and better housing.

So What?

The light rail may wind its way down to CCS by 2018. Now that makes me think:

Will that somehow entice downtown workers who currently visit the community for lunch at Lolo’s or Pete’s Fish & Chips to return after work? Would it help to place banners or other signage at the community’s entrances, fostering awareness of its cultural diversity and history? That simple measure might beckon people there if there’s something to do, something like enjoy cultural holiday celebrations and festivals, vendors or actual stores selling crafts, foods, clothing, etc.

On the other hand, perhaps the citizens feel their efforts are wasted. Take those vibrant, artful highway overpasses on the 10. Neighborhoods wanted to sparkle them up after decades of traffic and pedestrian dirt. The state government declined to do so. The denizens then offered to do it themselves. Again the government refused. Catch 22 anyone?

I’m hoping the vacant lots don’t become an impetus for gentrification and that CCS residents and the PRC can help prevent a likely tide of forthcoming downtown developer encroachment. Perhaps the city will include CCS’s cultural diversity into its Reinvent PHX, or #Phoeinvention, as I call it. As Jeff Speck said in his presentation to the AIA in April: “You can’t fake a Little Italy or Chinatown. If you have these legitimate cultural areas, embrace them.”

 

HS

An Afternoon in El Centro del Lima: Piscos and Architecture

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Another excursion in Lima grants another reason to love the place. Today’s journey was to Central Lima, a bona fide downtown, rich with history and breathtaking architecture and public spaces. I met a new friend, a British woman who keeps me in stitches, and made a new one, a young Peruano whose Indian heritage made sensual images dance in my head.

Cars and taxis honk almost ceaselessly in El Centro. While the noise level cannot compare to the din of Mumbai, it’s jarring compared to the rest of the city. The district’s natural pace puts a lift in your footsteps. The prices were surprisingly lower than other, more affluent places I’ve been within the city, namely Miraflores and San Isidro.

Caroline, who’s British and Irish, and I first stopped into el Gran Hotel Bolivar Jiron de la Union 958). The expansive hotel, a Limean landmark, we are told by one of the security guards who apologized not to allow me to take photos of one particular hall, was built in 1924. Its ambiance, colors, and design belie that. It bears no Art Deco design but something more like mid-19th-century Victorian stylings. My lonely planet travel guide labels it ‘frayed’, though by all means do I disagree. The massive, colonial hotel reveals an inherent concern and capacity for maintenance of its history and vintage buildings, something refreshing after my experiences in China and India.

After some minutes spent salivating at the warm, vintage interiors and an exquisite cupola of stained glass, we headed to La Terraza, otherwise known as ‘La Catedral del Pisco.’ Like one of its many famous visitors and my favorite writers, Ernest Hemingway, I indulge in this bar’s renown for its pisco sours, the national cocktail (two for S/. 14, ~$3). She tells me about her new Latin lover, who has opened her eyes (and more) to understand first-hand their reputation. Between blushing giggles I tell her my similar story, the real reason I chose Peru over other South American countries. It’s delightful not only to listen to her accent but also to be so frank with another woman, and I’m relating to her professionalism, the fact she often paints in acrylic when insomnia rears its head, and her self discoveries made through travel.

 

Service surpassed many other, usually higher-priced, places, making the afternoon further enjoyable.

I will return. The terrace is quiet during the afternoons, despite the honking traffic, and therefore bringing the laptop for a grand writing session is in order.

Vlog of Urbanism in Peru

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This video blog marks ArchitectureTravelWriter.com’s foray into vlogging. Look for new media and other upcoming changes the blog.

Barranco is better known for its nightlife than its diurnal activities, and my two social outings there have proven that reputation correct. But today’s journey is an exploration of what I hadn’t witnessed and a return for photos of what I already had. I had a cab drop me off at La Avenida Sáenz Peña

before one of the many narrow median parkways fulfilled its purpose as a quiet public space. At its end a somewhat sheltered area serves up benches from which to view the Pacific-- like all good city planners should do-- and though the day's drizzly and hovering around 70 degrees--common for Limean winters-- the desire to smoke a fag whilst taking it all in proves compelling. I sit for a while, watching surfers make their way to their heaven, and enjoy the ocean air smell and the humidity moistening my cheeks.Then it's time to peruse nearby museums such as the Galería Lucía de laPuente, (Sáenz Peña 206, www.gluciadelapuente.com). The lackluster paintings that smack of Pop Art aren't enough to warrant my lengthy interest, though I do lollygag over the interior architecture of the two-story casona (mansion). It's worth it to stay a few minutes more at the Punto de Cafe for an Illy espresso (S/. 4) and a torte de chocolate (S/. 6) or some lightly fried yucca sticks (S/. 6.5). 

I stroll through the rest of the park, trying not to chase the cooing pigeons, only to stumble upon La Casa Cultural Mocha Graña

(Sáenz Peña 107), which isn't in my Lonely Planet travel guide.  it's the lovely Latina donning an exquisite red dress for a forthcoming flamenco presentation that settles it. Not only does it have a wonderfully spacious and clean bathroom, which I've discovered is de rigeuer in Lima, it marks a cultural lesson on its own. Sitting in a quaint cafe to spend some time on the Interwebs, rhythmic thuds of dance steps carry from what are surely wood floors on the second story of the building-- likely another historic casona-- down to the main floor. An employee of the avant-garde theatre and dance center speaks entertainingly with cafe employees, seemingly family members, and hustles theatre equipment around. Pollo (chicken) empa

ñadas, other finger foods, and desserts are available for S/. 4 or 5, though I don't partake as I see no vegetarian options.

An hour or so later, I depart to browse the PPPP design gallery at the end of Sáenz Peña (Avenida Grau 810). Again interior architecture takes hold and I'm staring at the ceiling, embellished by square cupolas with operable ribbon glass and the floors of colorful hand-lain tile designs. The gallery space is well curated and comfortable furniture absolutely insists I sit on it, letting my eyes linger horizontally. It's a good time to ponder the owner couple's pieces: rugs of Andean hand-weaving tradition and Italian architectural design accessories.
Finally it's time to explore the part of Barranco more frequently discussed, heading south on Grau for a brisk six blocks. I pass musicians, architectural students and professionals, and some free spirits along the way, knowing I've finally located the bohemian center I longed for.What would Hemingway do?